Category Archives: Sew you want to be a Fashion Designer[c]

Fashion Coloring Books of my Illustrations

 I have been sketching fashion all my life, in my career, as preparation for my staff to complete garments made from my ideas. I have designed everything from childrenswear, men’s sportswear to casino attire. I am now retired from the garment industry but still love to create art with fashion as an influence.  I  have done some sketches with a tangled look, which is very popular lately. Many friends have suggested that I come out with a coloring book of my original sketches of  fashion. NOW THEY ARE HERE IN MY ETSY SITE. The designs are in  black and white so you can fill in colors and ideas as you like. Some are complicated  some are  simple , for the budding designer or just the lover of fashion. in you. The single pages are now  available for only $1.00. You can buy as many pages as ypu like. Soon my book will be published with now  through my Etsy site that you can get to from this web page. Hope you can enjoy creating your own.


sourhwestern girl color

My original illustration is copyrighted. No one else should be using this sketch

My original illustrations are copyrighted. No one else should be using these sketches as their original designs. Feel free to share your sketches with friends and family

 

The Little Black Dress

Fashion is just an illusion 2007I went to a Little Black Dress show at the History Museum in St Louis MO.  It was very well done. They showed turn of the century ( 1904 on) original black dresses that were worn as mourning dresses. They were worn for a year or more. After that they shifted to grey dresses

Now our new  little back dresses are worn anywhere, even weddings.  They are go dresses for any event.  I suggest you pay attention to what part of the body you wan to emphasize, which is one of the 5 standards of Fit. A Little Black Dress needs a little help to show it off.

 

So you wonder why Couture designers show fantasy clothing at their runway shows, which are designs for the future ?   They often make similar dresses for their (ready to wear lines). This is how they make money, by continue trying to be in the news all over the world. Also  An average person can go to their local stores and find simpler versions of the hi style garments.  those items fall into what I call the Little Black Dress

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Painting on Natural Leather

mini 3Susannahs new bagI have been designing small messenger bags of deerskin, with original edges for a year now. I am adding painted designs with an assortment of inks. I never use acrylics because they will not sink in to leather and can peal off with use of bags. Some of the inks I use are real colored ink, markers of color and fabric type inks. Then i seal the colors in with a sealer made for painted leather. See here some of my deerskin projects.  They are sold locally at the Green Door Gallery on Gore avenue in Webster Groves. I also am selling my hand blocked Ecuadorian straw large brimmed hats. I block them from woven straw cones made in Ecuador. I block them over my antique wood blocks, trim them and stitch in an adjustable headband, made of petersham  grosgrain curvable , to shape to your head.

St Louis MO new clothing manufacturing plans

Make it long or short

Make it long or short


St Louis interest groups want to help start up manufacturing here where I live. Washington avenue in downtown ST Louis was the district that created the “junior market”, like sizes 5,7,9,11. These sizes were featured for the young woman, not ready for adult MRS sizes, and had more youthful styling. We were the first city to make tight pants, not jeans, that appealed to adult girls. I actually designed at a factory in ST Louis County, that made those slacks, and other junior wear. World War 11 was over and the 50,s were coming in. Comfortable knits began to be worn also.In World War 11 soldiers wore short sleeve tee shirts for underwear, not the sleeveless kind like their fathers. Marlon Brando wore one in the movie “Street Car Named Desire” that added to the look of the times.

Lets help St Louis to make it happen again, NOW.

Future Ventures for Johanna Fashion World

I am continuing this conversation talking about the manufacturing garment industry today. I realize there are people who want to enter this industry,I have loved forever. It is not an easy process. A designer can not only have some good ideas she would like to see made, she must have them produced and sold. This is what complicates things. I taught and ran a Fashion PFashion is just an illusion 2007rogram in West Palm Beach Florida in the community college of Palm Beach for 11 years. I taught students (wanna be designers) the skills they needed to enter this business. Find out more about my tenure there by checking about me section and my Etsy site. I worked in the garment industry as a designer for over 40 years. Now that I am retired I feel the need to teach some of the skills I used in this industry. Check all my posts and keep up with my blogging for what is to come next in my long career. One of my artist friends says the same thing that she wants to pass on some her skills she has learned and taught over the years now.

Fashion Design World in 2015

Knit skirt no pattern for sale on etsy .com/shop/johannafashionworld

Knit skirt no pattern for sale on etsy .com/shop/johannafashionworld

With the growth of computer and the Internet many people want to be Fashion Designers but they are not sure how to go about it. I feel that true fashion designers should be part creative and skilled in developing their ideas. (so part designer,part engineer).Following are many of my posts on how to go about that. See my profile for my background in this Fashion World I love. I designed for many years in the manufacturing world of the garment industry. I also ran a fashion program at Palm Beach Community College for 11 years. Some of my students won a trip to Paris to compete in the a student contest studying fashion design.
My new Blogs and Pinterest will give you some suggestions as to how to go about entering this business.

First,you need the skills of expressing your ideas, original ones, not copies of clothing you love.(sketching) You need to immerse yourself in all creative worlds, including the art world.(visit museums for inspiration) interior world, architecture world, fashion history world.

Next, you need to learn how to construct your ideas by learning how to construct a garment (that means learning to sew),draping, flat pattern making, researching fabrics and how they work on a person. Study the color world also.knit photo Susannah for back of booklet auly 13

Sew you want to be a Fashion Designer Now

Buttons Illustrated by meUnderstanding Buttons and Buttonholes Booklet

Here is a finish you need to know about if you want to be a fashion designer. Most garments need an opening so you can put it on a person. Woven fabric need seams and closures. You do need to know how to construct the garments you design, even if you never intent to sew them up yourself. Learning about buttons and buttonholes is imperative. When a patternmaker picks the size of button for a garment it includes information as to how big the button is going to be.

The garment will overlap the correct amount based on the size also. Once the pattern is made you should never change the placement of the buttons and the extension. Many sewing beginners try to change this dimension, especially if the model has a large bust. This cannot be done. Many home seamstresses do not read the button size suggested on the purchased pattern and overlap a garment too much, therefore drastically change the fit of the garment. S much to learn before you can be serious about designing. Check out my booklet for learning about Buttons and Buttonholes and how to use them in your designs. There is also patternmaking information in this booklet. This booklet may be purchased on my etsy shop johannafashionworld…all things fashion. Remember that sewing knowledge is a necessity to becoming a fashion designer. You need to understand how fabrics drape on a body and then how to engineer it so it can be mass produced. See some of other booklets like Making a knit skirt with no pattern and understanding knits, also on my web site.

“Emphasis” observe this if you want to be a Fashion Designer

Always travel with a little sketch book, not to copy other peoples garments but to observe what they are emphasizing on their body. A woman with a large bust might have a large flower printed or a slogan saying something right over her bust. Maybe she wants people to notice her large bust or is not even aware that that is what they are seeing, especially if the garment is tight.  I am sure some of you have seen all the new dresses people in the entertainment world are wearing that have slits in various places. Your eyes are automatically drawn there even if it is not flattering on that person.  The latest looks that I have been observing are the dresses with darker side panels than front panel. this is a good use of visually slimming the figure. the dark color recedes from our eye’s so appears to go away.  If you have a tiny waist try and wear a belt. to show that your figure has some curves. The latest practice of belting women’s dresses above the waist and below the bust is a way to camouflage that you do not have a small waist. I find that sometimes it works and is flattering and sometimes it does not. I am working on a booklet about The elements and Principles of design. Emphasis is an important part of these elements and principles. the same are used by painter and others to review their art.

Being a Fashion Designer… Draping on a Mannequin

old jump drive 1_021902_3995old jump drive 1_021902_3995

Here I am demonstrating draping a vest on a form. Remember fabric is flat and the human body is round. We can shape the fabric to a body by adding darts or curved seams. No darts in fabric will make the vest stick straight out on the body unless it is made of knit which falls down or klings.So many dressy jackets and vests are worn today of knit with long points. They will not have to fit around a body, hence their popularity now.a I have also included a sketch of my personal mannequin that I have had for several years.It is now in the hands if my granddaughters that like to drape fabrics on it. I imagine that many of you have started your love of fashion the same way. It seems so easy. The next problem is how to get it off the mannequin and into a dress that people can wear.Remember you are taking a flat piece of fabric and draping it around a round cylinder{our figures} . This is where the knowledge of pattern making begins. To take your creation off the form you will need a lot of pins and pattern making chalk for markings. You will need to create a seam on each side and probably in the back. When you cut the fabric off the form keep it pinned together as best you can and lay it on a table. the fabric must lie flat. You might need to add more darts, folds seams to make that happen. After doing all this you can put it back on the form and see how it really looks. This is just for practice to help you understand more about the human figure you want to dress. This fitting is sometimes called a muslin because basic muslin fabric is used for this test. This suggestion is for using woven fabric but not knit. Knit is a whole different world.

My original illustration is copyrighted. No one else should be using this sketch My original illustration is copyrighted.

Shopping for the correct knit fabric to make a skirt

I want to share some information with you today about working with knit fabrics. I have created a booklet called Knit Skirt no Pattern. selling on my Etsy.com/Shop/JohannaFashionWorld , including all the step by step details to buy

Make it long or short

Make it long or short

fabric and put together this skirt with no pattern at all , just your measurements.

I want to share some tips with you today if you want to test yourself without buying my booklet.Before you can learn to sew with knit fabric you have to purchase the right kind to make a simple straight skirt. I want to share some tips here about knits sold in fabric stores today. I know you have bought many knit skirts before and are now searching how to make a skirt with the same look. Many times your local retail fabric store does not keep up with the designer ready to wear market. My first clue is for you to identify the fabric choices out there. You will find that some of them have more stretch than others. Sometimes it is the type of knit stitch that is used. Sometimes it has added spandex to the yarns used. Many of our new clothing, even woven ones have stretch fabric included, spandex, meaning the generic name. If you are looking for the word Lycra you should know that that is a specific type of knit owned by a particular company. When looking for fabrics with stretch call it by the generic name, spandex. There is all spandex fabric that is primarily used for swim wear. It is very stretchy but recovers well because you would not like a swim suit that stretched out in the water. It is beautiful and colorful but hard for a beginner to sew with. I would suggest a cotton blend with some polyester and or spandex in it.  It will be easier to sew and holds it shape well. If you are a knitter you will know the term knit and purl. The knit stitch is usually on the surface of your fabric and the purl is on the back or inside. This  type of  fabric is called a jersey stitch. It is usually used for sleep wear and undergarments that are loose fitting. This fabric will not make a great tight fitting straight skirt. I prefer to use a fabric called Interloc Knit. It looks like there is a knit stitch on both sides. Do not confuse it with the old fashioned double knit that some of us wore in the 70’s and 80’s. and was usually made of polyester.  An interlock fabric with some spandex added would be great to start on too.  If you want to be a Fashion Designer it is imperative that you learn about all the fabrics there are out  in the world today and how to use them.  Be sure to prewash what ever fabric you buy for your first skirt. If it has some cotton in it it will surely shrink a little. If you get a chance take a class in Textiles taught at many universities and continuing ed classes, or your local fabric store if they offer it. There are many books at some libraries on this subject also.  Good luck shopping for your first knit skirt. Most knit fabrics are 60″ wide, You need to buy a piece at least as long as you want your skirt to be with at least 4 or 5″ more. If your hips are larger than 60″ you will need to buy two lengths of the skirt you want to make plus 4 or 5″ Watch for my next tip. how to put your skirt together